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No. 21 Pre-Fall 2023 – WWD


“I find there’s much confusion nowadays and I believe each one should focus on what he or she does best,” said Alessandro Dell’Acqua about the state of the industry during a walk-through in Milan.

The designer has been increasingly embracing this approach, shying away from specific seasonal inspirations to simply focus on his “obsessions” in his collections, hence affirming and reiterating his style season after season.

It’s an exercise that repaid Dell’Acqua in consistency and efficiency in delivering his message, plus proved that the pillars of his brand can stand the test of time. These include the juxtaposition of masculine and feminine tropes, a constant sensual undertone, references to the ‘90s, knitwear expertise and eccentric outbursts via cascades of sequins and feathers here and there.

All elements converged in the pre-fall lineup, too, which appealed with its unfussy coolness and a reassuring sense of familiarity. The range offered covetable and uncomplicated wardrobe-builders, encompassing pinstripe suits, herringbone coats, oversize leather jackets with a lived-in feel, fuzzy sweaters in baby blue and lilac hues and basic tank tops.

Textures ranged from the transparency of Chantilly lace in signature pencil skirts, slipdresses and lingerie to the voluminous softness of faux furs crafted from airy mohair. In continuity with the spring 2023 collection, liquid effects were introduced via allover sequins on a gown or a long skirt styled with a lightweight knit; both looks offered solace for those nostalgic for ‘90s minimalism.

“I’ve been recovering many things from the past, from my [former namesake] label and personal archive….For years I’ve been too angry to look back, but now I do,” said Dell’Acqua, pointing to a nude viscose coat overlaid with black lace and chiffon floral brooches pinned on garments.

Is there anything more timely than making peace with one’s own past?





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